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GETTING AROUND

Much of Myanmar is off limits to foreigners or can only be accessed after getting permission or by taking an expensive tour organized by the government's Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT). But in the places where you are able to go there's surprising freedom to stop and roam where you want. Some isolated towns such as kengtung, Sittwe and Kawthoung require jumps by air or bus to reach.

It's worth adding that the government is very happy about their (literal, not political) bridge building, capped by the country's largest in Mawlamyine (Moulmein); this 3km bridge over the Thanlwin (Salween) River was completed 2004. See the list of bridges at www.myanmar.com/build/bridge. Myanmar has 66 (and counting) airstrips around the country, of which 20 are served by car outside town. In many towns you'll note new, spotless, largely empty airports serving, well, no flights. One Magwe resident said: "Our airport? It's for show. We don't get flights here". As with international flights, domestic flights involved immigration and customs checks.

In the wake of Visit Myanmar Year in 1966, forced labour was reportedly used ready new airstrips. Many travelers avoid air travel, as taking a flight means that more money goes to the government.

TO/FROM MAE SAI, THAILAND

North of Chiang Rai it's possible to cross to dreary Tachileik. Travelers already possessing a 28-day visa (obtained from Bangkok or elsewhere) are permitted to enter Myanmar here and travel with Myanmar transportation to the rest of the Myanmar country. If you don't have a visa, a US$5 day pass (paid to Myanmar immigration on town; a US$10 14-day pass, also obtainable at the border, also allows travel to Kengtung and Mong La. It is not a problem to leaves Myanmar here, as long as your visa hasn't expired.

TO/FROM RANONG, THAILAND

Travel agents in Ranong help arrange 28-day visa allowing you to cross into Kaw- thoung and travel with Myanmar transportations to the rest of Myanmar. There are more than 3 border check points between Myanmar and Thailand but Tachilek and Measia are the only points available at the moment. Only a very short bridge of 2 minutes' walk lies between the two border towns. After crossing the bridge, clients can proceed by land ( 3 hours driving ) or by flight ( 15 minutes ) to Kyaing Tong, the place of hill tribes. Or can fly to Inle Lake ( 50 minutes ) or Yangon ( 2 hours by direct flights but usually there will only be transit flights via Heho, Mandalay so takes about 5 hours ). You can also enter Myanmar country for two days by purchasing a US$5 "day pass", which doesn't subject you to the same 5km restriction. Traveler can exit Myanmar here too. Presently immigration charges US$25 for you to do so; this is likely not an official fee but seems to be pretty standard.